Monthly Archives: February 2015

El Tatio Geyser Field

Whilst I loved my most recent trip after evenings of critiquing the same photographs over and over again, I need a break and something else to look at.

So, it was time for a trip down memory lane and back to the trip that made me lose interest in architectural work and fall in love with landscape: Chile. Specifically this is El Tatio, the World’s highest geyser field at a lack-of-oxygen-headache-inducing 4,300 metres up in the Andes. At 5AM in the morning it is on the chilly side too and so wrapping up warm is definitely recommended.

This is an image that was completely lost in my Adobe Lightroom catalogue until now but, simply of curiousity I decided to go through all the images I took, not just the ones I had selected at the time.

I rather like it and it may have just become my favourite image from Chile. I’m so fickle…

A couple debate heading closer to the geysers at El Tatio, Northern Chile.

A couple debate heading closer to the geysers at El Tatio, Northern Chile.

 

Posted in Frame by Frame Tagged , , |

The Danakil Depression: Trip Review Part 4

The fourth and penultimate part of the trip report looks at, what for me, was the second reason for coming to the Danakil Depression: Dallol. But before you read on, you may also be interested in part 1, part 2 and part 3.

Day 7              

By now it will be no surprise that it is another early start although alas not to head out to the lava lake. The aim will be to get back down to the base camp in time for breakfast which, depending upon how fast your gear is packed on the camel and how fast you walk, will take about three hours.

The journey back down Erta Ale is pretty easy going and there will be plenty of opportunities for shooting despite setting off in pitch darkness. Sunrise will occur about an hour or so into the descent although aside from the occasional water stop you probably won’t have many – or any – extended breaks. The last time you were here was during the ascent in pitch black so it is interesting to see how various plants have found the ability to survive in the volcanic landscape. There are lots of opportunity for shooting the contrast of the green against the volcanic rock and also the volcanic ash plains that can easily be mistaken for sand. Whether you can make use of the landscape really depends upon your ability to shoot ‘on-the-go’.

Dawn approaches as we descend from Erta Ale. [Click to enlarge!]

Dawn approaches as we descend from Erta Ale. [Click to enlarge!]

I had a lot more success with the camels and, despite having no interest in wildlife photography managed, after a few attempts, to get some reasonable results of them in silhouette against the rising sun.

Once back at the base camp, you’ll likely have a couple of hours before setting off for Dalol. Aside from breakfast, which has to be prepared and then everything cleaned and repacked, the camels have to be unloaded and everything packed back in the 4WD vehicles. This will be your first chance to recharge the camera batteries (unless you packed a solar charger as I did) so make good use of it although as you can probably imagine, everyone will be in the same predicament as you.

Camels are a critical part of the Afar way-of-life and so get treated with love and care. [Click to enlarge!]

Camels are a critical part of the Afar way of life and so get treated with love and care. [Click to enlarge!]

After the vehicles are packed it will be time to head further north and up to the very top of the Danakil Depression. The journey continues along the ash plains and so expect a lot of dust. This is a dry land although surprisingly there are a lot of low bushes managing to eek out an existence here.

Despite not having to cover a lot of distance the journey is slow work; even in 4WD vehicles with skilled drivers it is not a journey to take lightly: Out here in the intense heat a flat tyre will be a real irritation; two of them begins to be a problem. We stopped to help one of the Afar locals and his family after we found their vehicle broken down, after all one day it could be one of the expedition vehicles.

Lunch time is spent at a palm oasis although it is far removed from the idealised ones you’ll see advertising tropical islands. Now that you’re back at 130 metres below sea level and in the basin (the name Danakil Depression is literally from the fact that there is a depression in the ground at Danakil) at midday the sun is really making itself felt. Most people, somewhat sensibly stayed under the cover of the palms, but I had a mission based on a mini-project of capturing the four elements: Fire, water, air and earth. I felt that, after two days at Erta Ale, I had probably captured the ‘fire’ image, and ‘water’ was covered from when I was in Iceland. ‘Earth’ was more tricky as it can be interpreted somewhat broadly but, in keeping with the extreme nature of my fire and water images, I was after an equally extreme earth shot – and the heat-seared, cracked surface I was seeing here may just work. So off I went in search of inspiration.

The sun literally bakes the ground. [Click to enlarge!]

The sun literally bakes the ground. [Click to enlarge!]

I also re-learnt a valuable lesson. I had asked earlier if there would be an opportunity to see a big area of heat-cracked ground as I was initially thinking of a nice big landscape shot with cracked ground as far as the eye could see. Apparently there was “a really nice one” coming up after lunch and so, laying prostrate on the unsurprisingly very hot ground in the noon-day sun, I was really quite tempted to give up and wait for the better opportunity coming up. But I didn’t, mainly as there was nothing else to do and I do get bored easily, so I carried on shooting a series, one of which is above. It is just as well I persevered as the “really nice one” really wasn’t and I had been very close to giving up an opportunity. So my lessons for the day were (1) always make use of the opportunities you are given even if a better one is on the horizon and (2) don’t take photographic advice from a geologist.

Ash, as far as the eye can see [Click to enlarge!]

Ash, as far as the eye can see [Click to enlarge!]

After lunch the 4WD journey continues although as the terrain changes you’ll pick up speed. By mid afternoon you’ll arrive at Hamed Ale, what best can be described as a shanty town whose sole existence is to act as a stop for the camel trains that loop between the Danakil salt flats and the town of Berhale on the Tigray lowlands. After spending a few nights on the ash floors of the shacks at Erta Ale, accommodation is a definite improvement being a bedframe out under the stars. As basic as it sounds it was comfortable and I think most of us slept well. The sanitary conditions also improve, although marginally: we now have a hole in the ground almost surrounded by corrugated iron.

Luxury is relative. After four days without a toilet the sanitary facilities at Hamed Ale were a step up. Toilet is on the left; bucket-shower on the right. [Click to enlarge!]

Luxury is relative. After four days without a toilet the sanitary facilities at Hamed Ale were a step up. Toilet is on the left; bucket-shower on the right. [Click to enlarge!]

Yes, a few days ago at Lake Afdera we were horrified at the prospect and yet now we were thankful: It’s amazing how easily your expectations can change when you’ve experienced the alternatives. As a bonus the corrugated iron toilet is one half of a structure, the other half being an equally-sized shower area. By shower I mean a bucket of water, but after three days of having to use chemical wipes to get the dirt and dust off my face, that bucket was heaven.

The rest of the afternoon is spent relaxing and heading out a short distance to watch the camel trains arrive from the salt plains loaded with their cargo. You’ll probably still be looking to charge the camera batteries – there is bound to have been a queue for in-car charging – but unless your expedition has a generator you’ll be out of luck. I simply set my solar charger up on the roof of a building we were using as a kitchen and for luggage storage and let nature work her magic. Honestly, I really recommend taking a good solar charger.

En route from the salt plains to Berhale [Click to enlarge!]

En route from the salt plains to Berhale [Click to enlarge!]

Our temporary home at Hamed Ale and a testament to the fact that travelling with the right people makes everything fun! [Click to enlarge!]

Our temporary home at Hamed Ale and a testament to the fact that travelling with the right people makes everything fun! [Click to enlarge!]

To be honest Hamed Ale is not particularly outstanding; it is a village of the same semi-permanent structures used by the Afar everywhere. They look, frankly, messy, but the Afar are a nomadic people – building permanent structures is not only pointless but would be time-consuming and costly. There is a military base here, larger than the one at the Erta Ale base camp and on the military compound is a bar with cold drinks, including beer. Indulging in a bed, rudimentary sanitary facilities and a cold drink after the past few days is guaranteed to make you smile.

It will be another early night, but falling asleep whilst looking up at the stars is a wonderful way to nod off…

 

Day 8  

It will be another pre-dawn rise today in order to go and see the second main site that the area has to offer: The hot springs at Dallol. The area is accessible at any time but the idea is to beat the midday heat – a taste of which you had yesterday at the oasis yesterday. It is worth making sure that you have (at least) two litres of water with you: When we leaving the area we heard that a lady in another group had just collapsed, presumably a combination of dehydration and poor choice of clothes from what we saw later. This is another of the “fly-by” stops that the shorter trips visit and so, as they usually don’t camp in the area, an early start also means that you’ll avoid a lot of the other groups.

Dallol was once described by National Geographic as being one of the most remote places on Earth. [Click to enlarge!]

Dallol was once described by National Geographic as being one of the most remote places on Earth. [Click to enlarge!]

The hot springs are in the caldera of the Dallol volcano and although nowhere near as active as Erta Ale – Dallol last erupted in 1926 and now displays no fluid magma – it has its own very unique appeal.

A bizarre landscape that is sadly now but a shadow of what it once was. [Click to enlarge!]

A bizarre landscape that is sadly now but a shadow of what it once was. [Click to enlarge!]

You would easily be forgiven for thinking that someone had been at work in Photoshop when looking at photographs of the area: There is an other-worldly mix of blues, greens, yellows, whites and purples. Although it has been nearly 90 years since the last eruption the area is a fracture in the Earth’s crust and a number of geysers vent here. You should heed the warnings given as although not explosive geysers such as seen in El Tatio or Yellowstone, what they lack in power they make up in substance, the pools of liquid you see around the area are high-molar mineral acid measuring less than 1.0 on the pH scale.

 

You’ll get a few hours at Dalol and despite that fact that the heat will likely have passed the 40°C mark by 10AM it is worth making the effort to stay. A few years ago the area was much larger – and all the more impressive – but a Canadian potash mining operation about 30km distant is disrupting the underground fissures that make up the plumbing system of the area and causing significant damage to the landscape in front of you. The result is a drab brown crust that is slowly replacing the fantastic multi-coloured vents and ground. Talking to the geologist with us it is quite possible that within five years this place will either be gone completely or so compromised that it won’t classify as being an ‘area’ at all.

This is what the stunning, other-worldly landscape of Dallol is becoming due to potash mining. [Click to enlarge!]

This is what the stunning, other-worldly landscape of Dallol is becoming due to potash mining. [Click to enlarge!]

The other thing that may be of interest here is the ghost town left after an Italian mining company deserted the area in the 1960s. There is not much of it left – the salt and acid rich environment likely having something to do with that, but it is a curiousity. Still scattered around the remaining furnaces are lumps of refined sulphur as a testament to the fact that the mineral-rich area is being exploited by everyone except the Ethiopians.

The area was once a riot of vivid yellows, green, blues and white. buy nearby potash mining has had a devastating effect. [Click to enlarge!]

The area was once a riot of vivid yellows, green, blues and white. but nearby potash mining has had a devastating effect. [Click to enlarge!]

The most disappointing aspect of the day was that it was so short. After leaving the bizarre landscape we returned back to the camp for lunch and then just stayed there which was more than a little frustrating from a landscape photography point-of-view simply as there is not a lot to work with, certainly in the afternoon sun. There is a lot more opportunity for portraits and candids, however, so if this is something that you are interested in then you’ll easily while away the afternoon. Some of us used the time to sort though the images from the past few days and some used the time to catch up on sleep, but I and the other photographers would much rather have been out again. The afternoon turned uneventfully into evening and then night.

 

Day 9

Like yesterday you’ll be up for dawn and heading out before the sun realises you’ve gone. We followed the same track out to the hot springs which again took us past the camel train heading out to the salt flats to pick up their cargo. You’ll almost definitely make a stop to watch them although whether you stop today or the previous day may be open for debate.

The daily camel train heading out to the salt flats to pick up their cargo of white gold. [Click to enlarge!]

The daily camel train heading out to the salt flats to pick up their cargo of white gold. [Click to enlarge!]

The camel train is a centuries-old and fundamental part of the Afar culture in Dallol. The salt still being mined on these flats was once the only form of currency and although money is now the preferred method of payment the Afar still make their living off the mining and transport of salt – or white gold as it is called. What you’ll see in the morning is the daily camel train heading out to pick up their cargo – salt blocks – before heading back to Hamed Ale for the evening. Any photographic opportunities here will be constantly in motion so, despite the heat, you may be rushing around a fair bit.

Where you actually head after that I’m not too sure; I thought that we were heading back to the hot springs, but we actually took a turn and headed off into a salt canyon. From a landscape point-of-view there’s a lot on offer here and in many ways resembles a limestone canyon with deep crevasses and odd-shaped sculptures resulting from erosion. I would like to have had more time here and so it may be worth asking ahead of time if you can – we were back at the camp by lunchtime and so the day isn’t a busy one.

Cliffs of salt dominate the landscape and provide some excellent landscape to work with. [Click to enlarge!]

Cliffs of salt dominate the landscape and provide some excellent landscape to work with. [Click to enlarge!]

From the canyon we headed out towards the salt plains stopping to look at more evidence of the fragile nature of the landscape here. The African continent is being ripped apart by geologic forces resulting in the tectonic plate upon which the African continent sits being split in two. This process is happening along the boundary of the African plate and the Arabian place and hence the geologic fault being called the Afar Triple Junction. The process is slow by human standards – approximately 100 million years – but eventually this entire region will be the seabed of a new sea.

More evidence of the destruction of a continent. This fault has only appeared in the last year and mirrors the 6500km fault that is pushing eastern Africa away from the rest of the continent. [Click to enlarge!]

More evidence of the destruction of a continent. This fault has only appeared in the last year and mirrors fault system that is pushing eastern Africa away from the rest of the continent. [Click to enlarge!]

From here you’ll head off to the salt plains, stopping at more hot springs along the way.

The salt plains are an interesting place and offer excellent opportunities for portrait and candid photography. Although not really my area of interest, it is hard not to be captivated in the centuries-old techniques of mining salt that you’ll see here. It is truly back-breaking hard labour under the unrelenting sun and the workers get paid a pittance for each block of salt that they carve from the ground. Most of the workers are not actually the Afar, but rather Tigrayans who leave the highlands to come and earn money working six hours a day, six days a week, up to ten months a year. Working in small teams and using only basic tools – pick axes and wooden poles to crack open the surface and a small, bladed, hand tool – they carve up the salt crust and shape the large fragments into small, rectangular blocks approximately 35cm long and weighting 4kg.

Getting ready to load the camel for the two-day journey back to Berhale. [Click to enlarge!]

Getting ready to load the camel for the two-day journey back to Berhale. [Click to enlarge!]

The resulting salt blocks are then stacked, tied together and loaded onto camels and donkeys for the 50km, two-day journey to Berhale where from where they will be distributed across Ethiopia.

As with the hot springs that you saw yesterday, the salt miners that you see today are living on borrowed time: A new tarmac road – the first of its kind in the area – has just been completed in December 2014 – and with it the ability to get large-scale commercial transport into the area. Given that salt mining is a lucrative business it won’t be long before a commercial mining operation is set up at which point the centuries-old tradition that you see now will all but fade away.

After visiting the salt plains we returned back to the camp for lunch and more ‘free time’ which was more than a little disappointing given the opportunities that were available but needed a 4WD to get to. It may be possible – and I didn’t even think to ask at the time – to pay a bit extra and head back out, although you’ll have to pay for a military and police escort as well as the driver’s time. However, I suspect that you won’t be the only one willing to pay for the opportunity.

Today is also the last day that you are in the Danakil region and among the Afar people so if you are interested in cultural or portrait work this will be your last time to interact with these proud people.

In the fifth and final part I’ll look at the time spent in the Tigray highlands and discuss the expedition’s strengths and weaknesses.

 

Some more images…

Descending from Erta Ale. [Click to enlarge!]

Descending from Erta Ale. [Click to enlarge!]

An Afar military guard watches the only road in to the area. [Click to enlarge!]

An Afar military guard watches the only road in to the area. [Click to enlarge!]

Life survives in even the harshest environment. [Click to enlarge!]

Life survives in even the harshest environment. [Click to enlarge!]

Dunes of volcanic ash [Click to enlarge!]

Dunes of volcanic ash [Click to enlarge!]

Years of use has produced a polished salt track across the land. [Click to enlarge!]

Years of use has produced a polished salt track across the land. [Click to enlarge!]

Posted in Destinations Tagged , , , , , , |

The Danakil Depression: Trip Review Part 3

Today post is the third of five continuing the Danakil Depression trip review (from the perspective of a photographer) and talking about the part of the expedition that was of most interest to me: Visiting the Erta Ale volcano and lava lake. Lots of pictures and some video (although please forgive the constant howl of the wind). You may also be interested in part 1 and part 2 of the review.

Days 5 – 6

As both days were spent in a very similar vein – at the lake – I won’t bother with a day-by-day breakdown.

You’ll be very well rewarded for making pre-dawn starts. It does help if there are like-minded people on the trip – and I was lucky to have a shooting partner on mine – but I suspect that being this close of a volcano means that wild horses wouldn’t keep you away!

Probably my favourite shot of the lake. [Click to enlarge!] (17mm, 1/10sec @ f/9.5, ISO 100, stacked ND grads)

Probably my favourite shot of the lake. [Click to enlarge!]
(17mm, 1/10sec @ f/9.5, ISO 100, stacked ND grads)

During the daytime, the sky is a rather non-descript light blue which doesn’t really make for interesting shots. Dawn however is a different story and purple will be the dominant colour. You’ll still need to use filters as, even in the pale dawn light, the sky is several stops of light above the foreground and you may even want to trying stacking a couple of ND grads. As with most dawn shoots you’ll only have a couple of minutes in the ‘sweet spot’, but luckily you have two dawns to try and capture the moment.

As you arrived late at night your first dawn is also the first time you’ll get to see the landscape around the lava lake and there are a couple of close-by high vantage points – a good one can be seen in the above photo on the right, the wide angle of the image making it appear more distant than it is. The lake is roughly ovoid and is approximately 65 metres in diameter making a wide angle lens – 17mm on a full frame body – pretty much ideal.

From the nearby hill you get a good view of the landscape around the lava lake. [Click to enlarge!] (35mm, 1/2sec @f/8, ISO 100)

From the nearby hill you get a good view of the landscape around the lava lake. [Click to enlarge!]
(35mm, 1/2sec @f/8, ISO 100)

 

The lake you see is the top of magma column 47 kilometres tall and is in a constant state of flux as the convection currents within the magma column bring molten rock to the surface and the centimetres-thick crust gets swallowed back below the surface. Whilst you are now standing right next to an erupting volcano, the geology of the region means that there isn’t a capped magma chamber and therefore there isn’t a significant amount of pressure build-up. The result of this is that Erta Ale spends much of its time gently simmering away with constantly changing patterns of orange moving across its surface. But it does go though cycles of increased activity and on the second day we were there the lake had entered some kind of prolonged activity whereby periods of simmering were followed by the ‘fountaining’ of lava resulting in spectacular shots. We did try and work out an interval between the fountains, but soon gave up just happy that there were several of them per hour. So it is worth being persistent and visiting as much as you can which I’m sure that you will, but I mention this as not only did one couple leave after the first day (presumably because they had seen enough and become bored) but one of the guys interested in photography and geology also returned to the base camp after the same day stating that “it won’t get any better than this”.

Much of your time at the lake will be spent watching and waiting and so keeping the gas mask to hand and having at least two litres of waters is important as, not only is the sun pounding down upon you from above, the heat coming off the lake’s surface is intense.

The lake surface is a constantly moving mass of boiling, molten rock. [Click to enlarge!] (85mm, 1/750sec @ f/4.5. ISO 100)

The lake surface is a constantly moving mass of boiling, molten rock. [Click to enlarge!]
(85mm, 1/750sec @ f/4.5. ISO 100)

Erta Ale can have moments of breath-taking wonder... [Click to enlarge!]

Erta Ale can have moments of breath-taking wonder… [Click to enlarge!]

 

Even when the lake is just simmering away, there are little bursts of activity as gas in the magma upwell escapes and I and the others spent a lot of time during the daylight hours attempting to capture the interesting shapes. The problem is that you really can’t predict where or when the gas will escape and as the event can last for as little as a second – often less – you have to keep alert. I found having two cameras really handy, a full-frame body with a 17-40mm lens and a cropped body with a 100-400mm lens, as that way I could quickly zoom in capture details when gas was escaping whilst keeping the 17-40mm set up for more usual landscape shots. The 100-400mm lens was overkill and 200mm would have be more than enough.

Your biggest issue will be the heat haze produced by 1200°C lava. Don't underestimate how many shots it will ruin... [Click to enlarge!]

Your biggest issue will be the heat haze produced by 1200°C lava. Don’t underestimate how many shots it will ruin… [Click to enlarge!]

One of the things that you’ll need to be aware of is that the heat from the surface is so intense that your biggest problem will be the heat haze. During the end-of day review after the first day at the lake I was very dismayed to find that the majority of the shots appeared out-of-focus. Indeed I thought that the auto-focus system was damaged. In fact of the 1000+ shots I took of the lake over the time there only around 80 of them are sharp enough to use. I was talking to one of the other people after the trip and she has had worse luck than me. You’re not going to be able to do anything about this in post production and so avoid disappointment I can only suggest three things:

First, shoot lots! I took over 1000 shots and I ran out of memory cards, having to resort to my emergency 4GB ones and borrowing a card of someone. The rule is simple: take enough shots and some are bound to be usable. I’m not suggesting a blind ‘photograph the hell out of it’ approach, but even with the composition set up, the heat haze will be the wild card. Shoot the same scene enough and, as the wind changes direction – even for a moment – the heat haze will shift allowing usable shots to be taken.

Second – and really an extension to the bit above about changing wind direction – I think shooting into the wind likely resulted in more heat haze and hence more unusable shots. Of course, the composition will determine which direction you shoot for landscape work but if capturing close-up abstract shots of the orange against the black crust, moving around the lake’s edge may help a bit.

Third, you’ve got three nights and two days up here and then you’ll be gone so make every minute count. One of the benefits this expedition has over the others I could find (certainly in 2014) is that you have access to the lake in various lighting conditions – night time, day time, dawn and dusk. The other trips only give you a single night – great for abstracts, not so good for landscapes.

When night falls the two-colour nature of the landscape takes over. [Click to enlarge!] (55mm, 1/15sec @ f/4.5, ISO 200)

When night falls the two-colour nature of the landscape takes over. [Click to enlarge!]
(55mm, 1/15sec @ f/4.5, ISO 200)

The guy who thought that day one was the best it would get (and so left) was, of course, wrong and missed some stunning shots as the second day saw the lake fountaining lava. Most of the group didn’t bother getting up pre-dawn to head over to the lake to see the sun rise above the caldera wall, again missing not only some stunning photography, but one the best spectacles nature has on offer. It may seem rather presumptuous of me to suggest that you would do anything other than make good use of the time but the combination of dirt, dust, heat, no sanitation, mice in the huts and lack of proper sleep can make anyone’s resolve weaken. Also, if you’re travelling as a couple or group, there may be other pressures too. But you’ll likely never be back here again so it is worth making use of the time.

The expedition doesn’t really provide a schedule of events for these two days which is ideal for photographers but perhaps less so for non-photographers. Saying that there are other things to see, the most notable of which is a hornito – or lava dome – in the nearby second crater. For our visit the hornito was simply steaming away although it also has periods of fountaining activity that can be impressive. At an altitude of 600 metres you’ll have some panoramic vistas too. But I suspect that the lava lake will be your focus.

Although quietly steaming away when we visited, the hornito is known to fountain lava too. [Click to enlarge!] (105mm, 1/250sec @ f/4.5, ISO 100)

Although quietly steaming away when we visited, the hornito is known to fountain lava too. [Click to enlarge!]
(105mm, 1/250sec @ f/4.5, ISO 100)

On the last evening there was a bit of a commotion when one of the military spotters thought that they saw some activity in the DMZ. At the time we were standing atop the hightest point next to the lava lake (see the dawn photo at the top of the article) and so were pretty exposed. Although unlikely to have been anything the military escort we had decided it would be better to descend and by the time we had out gear together and began to descend we passed three of the guards in sniping positions. It was a sobering reminder of where we were and just how close to the border.

OK, so this was a staged shot for a bit of fun - and he loved my sunglasses. But seeing three of the military in position for real on the second day at the lake was a sobering experience and a reminder that this is still a hotly contested area. [Click to enlarge!]

OK, so this was a staged shot for a bit of fun – and he loved my sunglasses. But seeing three of the military in position for real on the second day at the lake was a sobering experience and a reminder that this is still a hotly contested area. [Click to enlarge!]

We were still allowed to remain at the lava lake so it wasn’t the end of shooting (photographic, that it) and for the next couple of hours we busied ourselves making sure the we had captured everything we were after.

Four of us on the trip as close to an eruption as we'll every want to be! [Click to enlarge!] 50mm, 2 sec @ f/4, ISO 400

Four of us on the trip and as close to an eruption as we’ll ever want to be! [Click to enlarge!]
50mm, 2sec @ f/4, ISO 400

That evening we also had a reminder of how lucky we were to be on this expedition instead of one of the shorter four/five day ones as around 10PM a large group of around 25 people turned up and headed out to the lake. They were there for a couple of hours and then gone before we awoke at 5AM the next day. They missed so much of the beauty and spectacle of this amazing place.

Two Afar military guards stand on watch as night falls. [Click to enlarge!] (47mm, 1/15sec @ f/8, ISO 100)

Two Afar military guards stand on watch as night falls. [Click to enlarge!]
(47mm, 1/15sec @ f/8, ISO 100)

So you want to see a volcano?

Well, who wouldn’t. But after visiting the Bolivian Altiplano in 2010 and Iceland in mid 2014, both of which are overflowing with volcanoes, why did I – and why may you – want to visit Erta Ale? After all, it is not exactly the most convenient volcano to visit.

The answer for me was simple although perhaps hard to explain but in essence I want to see landscapes that show the scale and power of nature on a vast and unbelievable scale. And, of the elemental forces of nature, the volcano best represents just how immense and powerful nature can be. But to really appreciate the majesty of a volcano I wanted to see an eruption, I wanted to see lava flowing and I wanted to have the experience of being as close to this process as I could get whilst having a reasonable chance of surviving. The problem is that volcanoes don’t really erupt on demand and so trying to plan a trip to one isn’t an easy task.  But it can be done.

Erta Ale has the distinction of being one of only six known persistent lava lakes on the planet and although not the biggest (that would be Mount Nyiragongo the Democratic Republic of the Congo – or DRC), it is the oldest having been in permanent motion since 1906. For me, the key part here is persistent.

Staring into the abyss. [Click to enlarge!] 105mm, 1/500sec @ f/8, ISO 100

Staring into the abyss. [Click to enlarge!]
105mm, 1/500sec @ f/8, ISO 100

It might not be the largest of the lakes but at 60-70 metres in diameter you’ll certainly be impressed. Also, despite the apparent choice of lava lakes to visit your options are constrained. As of the end of 2014 Mount Nyiragongo, within the Virunga National Park, is still closed after a recent civil war; Mount Erubus in Antarctica is off limits to most; Kilauea in Hawaii has succumbed to health and safety worries and is definitely more a tourist attraction than a wonder of nature; and Ambrym in Vanuatu, whilst certainly very active, is not only fairly remote but the lake’s surface is about 500 metres below the crater rim making it a ‘view from afar’ experience for most people. The sixth and newest lava lake, Lake Nyamuragira, is also in the DRC and part of the same volcanic chain as Nyiragongo. But it is not yet fully persistent and very small.

So, if you want to have as much guarantee as possible that you’ll see an active volcano ‘doing its thing’ then Erta Ale is really your only option. But you better be quick. Small-scale tourism to the area has been increasing year after year despite the uncomfortable conditions and high cost. However with the construction of a road to Dalol now complete one of the main obstacles for mass tourism – access to the area – has been removed. Erta Ale may still require effort to get to, but it is no longer, as National Geographic have described it, one of the most remote places on Earth.

This may be great for the local economy but as more tourists arrive, the safety aspects of an unprotected hole full of molten rock will obviously become a concern and I can see safety barriers being erected. And that it not really something that will enhance any landscape photograph.

The lava lake at dawn is surrounded by a fragile lava landscape with its own unique beauty. [Click to enlarge!] (20mm, 1/15sec @ f/8, ISO 100)

The lava lake at dawn is surrounded by a fragile lava landscape with its own unique beauty. [Click to enlarge!]
(20mm, 1/15sec @ f/8, ISO 100)

You can spend hours watching the lake's surface constantly shifting, separating and reforming. It is almost hypnotic, or that could just be the gas! [Click to enlarge!] (35mm, 1/10sec @ f/5.6, ISO 100)

You can spend hours watching the lake’s surface constantly shifting, separating and reforming. It is almost hypnotic, or that could just be the gas! [Click to enlarge!]
(35mm, 1/10sec @ f/5.6, ISO 100)

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Lake Afdera: First Light

With the third of my five part trip review almost complete I’ve realised that it will be another epic read. So this week’s photo post is short and simple.

Tree stump in Lake Afdera, northern Ethiopia. [Click to enlarge!]

Tree stump in Lake Afdera, northern Ethiopia. [Click to enlarge!]

I woke up just before dawn on the fourth day and after a night spent camped along the shore of Lake Afdera. It had been an early night – around 10PM by the time I had taken some shots of the star-filled sky over the tents and, despite the humidity, I slept well so was up and about within minutes of opening my eyes.

I had guessed right the night before and I could see the sun about to rise above the hills on the other side of the lake. I grabbed the tripod, walked what must have been all of eight-steps to the lake’s edge and after the usual test shots managed to get a few I liked in the pre-dawn pinkish glow. Job done.

I had seen a tree stump further along the shore the evening before when we had first arrived and thought at the time that it might make an interesting subject against the stillness of the early morning lake surface. The light was changing fast – literally by the second at this time of day – so it was a mad dash to get over to it and set up the shot to see if what I saw in my mind could be translated into a photograph.

Now I’m back home I’ve had a chance to work through the shortlist of images and I’ve hit a bit of a problem with this shot. When I first saw the tree stump the image in my mind was the tree stump in high contrast, almost black and white. It is a simple, restful image and, as I seem to favour, it has lots of negative space it in – the top two-thirds in fact. The image at the top most closely resembles the image in my mind. But the image below is one of the several I took I took but without the high key adjustments – it has a much warmer feel to it. I say warmer – as you can see the colour is more pastel – but pastel is still warmer than white. I like it, as much as the ‘original’ intent above, albeit for different reasons. I can’t choose both, but I can’t choose one over the other either.

 

Tree stump in Lake Afdera, northern Ethiopia in the natural dawn light . [Click to enlarge!]

Tree stump in Lake Afdera, northern Ethiopia in the natural dawn light . [Click to enlarge!]

The third image at the bottom is the original shot I took the evening before as a test to see if I could frame the shot as I wanted. It was never taken as a ‘keeper’ shot but does show that – like most things in life – waiting for the right moment can dramatically alter the result you get.

 

The original shot of the tree stump [Click to enlarge!]

The original shot of the tree stump [Click to enlarge!]

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The Danakil Depression: Trip Review Part 2

Today’s post continues the review of the 13 day expedition to the Danakil Depression in northern Ethiopia. If you’ve missed it, part one can be found here.

Before talking about the third day it is probably a good time to mention an aspect of the trip that, if you travel alone, you have no control over: The people you travel with. Travel with the right people and the problems that arise can even be fun. Conversely travelling with people who aren’t enjoying themselves can really ruin the experience.

Being a solo traveller I am used to being dumped pretty much wherever there is space for me and I’m generally OK with that. Most of the people I meet travel as couples or in groups and so obviously they want to stay together which leaves spaces here and there that solo travellers then fill. So, perhaps because we were native English speakers, I ended up with an American couple, who even by day two were showing signs of perhaps realising the conditions that they had expected and the conditions they were experiencing were somewhat different. After a day in the 4WD with them being short with each other, followed by awkward silences, I asked to be moved to another vehicle. I can’t criticise them for being bothered about the sanitary conditions – if that is what the issue was – the conditions were getting worse, and they did manage to stay on the trip for a few days more, when the sanitary conditions became as bad as they can get. But I didn’t want my trip ruined by a bad atmosphere. They problem is that when you ask to be moved like that, you’ll likely cause offence.

Anyway, back to day three…

 

Day 3

Day 3: Logia to Lake Afdera

Day 3: Logia to Lake Afdera

A new event occurred after breakfast. Enku – our guide – made a point of getting us to all take rehydration salts. Over the past couple of days we have been slowly descending from Addis at about 2,500 metres altitude to Logia at 900 metres. But today will see us descend even further and the relatively cool temperatures – somewhere between 25°C and 30°C will increase as we descend. In retrospect this is one of the most critical things to remember on this trip – keeping hydrated is very important and water will not be enough, you will need rehydration salts. You’ll likely be given the ones we were which, whilst I didn’t mind the taste too much, others were less keen on. In any event buy your own before travelling as you’ll really need to keep taking them until you return to the highlands on day 10.

Today you’ll pass through Logia and soon after turn off highway 2 and head north to Lake Afdera (as local maps refer to it), a journey of 200km. This has only recently become a modern tarmac road – another sign of Chinese investment. The most immediate change is that the huge number of transport trucks drops sharply.

Once of route 2, the roads are much quieter, so much so that whilst lying down to take this shot some of the others were in the middle of the road dancing to the radio... [Click to enlarge!]

Once off route 2, the roads are much quieter, so much so that whilst lying down to take this shot some of the others were in the middle of the road dancing to the radio… [Click to enlarge!]

You will still see a few as Lake Afdera is the base of a commercial salt mine, but there is nowhere near the volume that you have just experienced over the past two days. One of the highlights for me was that shortly after lunch we stopped at an obsidian field. I’ve indicated its approximate location on the map but it’s worth checking that you stop there as I suspect that we only did as the trip we were on had an emphasis on volcanism and geology. I found it impossibly difficult to photograph and do it justice but it shimmered as the inky black lumps of obsidian – many as big as your forearm – caught the sunlight. Just be aware that you do need a mineral export license to take some home as a souvenir and they are quite thorough in scanning your bags at the airport. Even so, I managed to sneak a few pieces through. If this is important to you however, insist on having an export license before you travel as you can’t get one at the airport.

Again we arrived close to the end of the day. Leaving earlier (at the time we had planned) would have made a difference as it would have given us time to scout out locations for sunset. As it was we had to rush around to find something. Here there are large man-made salt fields where saline water is left to evaporate and catching the sunset in these would likely be an interesting composition, but you may be short on time to find one – a composition that is. The shoreline by the lake may be more interesting although standing on the shore facing the lake puts you looking east and so the sun unfortunately sets behind you, but on the plus side that does mean sunrise will be good. There are a couple of jetties out into the lake so silhouettes are an option.

Tonight we exchanged rooms for tents on the banks of the lake which was wonderfully picturesque but had its own challenges not least of all it meant that you will see, hear and probably feel mosquitoes. Mosquito repellent is a must. The second challenge is that, you are now below sea level and, at an elevation of -102 metres, you will have gone from the relatively temperate climate at Logia to a hot and humid one. There are natural hot springs close by and you can take a refreshing dip in them to cleanse yourself, but as soon as you get back out you’ll feel the heat again. Mixed groups need not worry; there are conveniently two hot springs and so there’ll be a ‘his’ and ‘hers’. To be honest it is worth taking a dip even if you do get all sweaty again immediately afterwards. If you’ve never bathed in naturally heated water it is an experience to keep with you – it is not just hot water but rich in minerals too. The men may also be sharing the hot spring with local salt workers and due to my timing I ended up sharing it with the Muslim workers who were cleansing themselves for evening prayers. Doing this will likely make you feel less like a tourist. It will also introduce you to the wonders of the volcanic nature of the Danakil region. In the movies volcanoes bring destruction and chaos, however they also bring life and fertile lands.

After a long day in the 4WD you'll be in time for sunset. [Click to enlarge!]

After a long day in the 4WD you’ll be in time for sunset. [Click to enlarge!]

The third challenge, and this is the one that most people struggle with, is that the concept of a toilet – in fact any sanitation – no longer exists. The camp did have a hole in the ground made private by sheets of corrugated iron, but there was a gut-wrenching smell emanating from it. So when we asked about what to do about toilets, and the reply was a hand wave gesturing into the jet-black night, we all just accepted it. Now I am not going to delve into the details but before you spend around $6000 (by the time you include flights etc.) to come on this kind of expedition, you owe it to yourself to fully understand what you are letting yourself in for and whether you are prepared to cope.

You’re going to need a head torch as both hands need to be free. The torch will serve a double duty in both allowing you to see where you are going and what you are about to stand in (remember that your little group is not the only one who needs to answer the call of nature – there will be others too). It will also act to warn others who may inadvertently approach on a similar mission to you that you are already ‘on site’. You’ll also have to become used to the squatting position – not a natural position for many Westeners – and so finding something to prop yourself against may be useful. Make sure that you bring toilet tissue, moist wipes and some kind of anti-bacterial hand lotion as there will be nowhere to buy these. And, perhaps the biggest challenge is the mental one; accept that for most of man’s history this is how the ‘act’ was done. Also, console yourself that no matter how discomforting you may find this, if you limit yourself to once per day, you will only have to do it five more times.

And just to reiterate the point: If the above description of going for ‘a poo’ in nature is at all horrible to you, remember that you are paying a lot for the privilege. The good news is that everyone else you’re with will be having the same feelings as you.

But, finally you are truly away from civilisation. Here, nature rules supreme.

The accommodation may get more basic on day three but you can't fault the view! [Click to enlarge!]

The accommodation may get more basic on day three but you can’t fault the view! [Click to enlarge!]

Day 4

Day 4: Lake Afdera to Erta Ale base camp

Day 4: Lake Afdera to Erta Ale base camp

Today is the first day where I found a dawn start really worthwhile. As mentioned the sun rises on the opposite bank of Lake Afdera to which the tents were set up and it was literally a case of get out of the tent and enjoy the sunrise. Some people love sunrise photography so do not, but I did like the abstracts that could be created by not including any manmade feature, such as the jetty. Long exposures work well as the lake will have ripples upon in – despite being dawn the land is already heating up and so a wind is developing.

Sunrise at the lake offers a few frantic minutes of great opportunities... [Click to Enlarge!]

Sunrise at the lake offers a few frantic minutes of great opportunities… [Click to Enlarge!]

After breakfast we begin to find to why understand why Enku insisted on the rehydration salts. By 9AM the temperature was already at around 30°C and the sun was just beginning to take a hold on the land. At -102 metres you’re in a basin and the heat was being captured in the same way water fills a bucket. The breeze, such that there was one was beginning to feel like a hairdryer. Today you’ll pick up the Afar police and military escort that you need for the next segment of the trip. It is not going to be a speedy process and so, like us, you’ll probably want to walk up to the local town, a place whose sole existence is due to the salt mining and wait in the local bar out of the sun. How long you’ll have to wait is in the hands of the military but by midmorning we had all become bored of waiting and despite the heat when out from the cover of the bar we walked around the chronically poor town, some of us more than once. If you’re interested in candid or portrait photography you’ll have plenty of opportunity here and despite there being an increasing number of foreigners passing through each year, you’ll definitely draw curious attention – nothing to cause concern but people will ask for money. Luckily all the paperwork is completed and we’re ready to go.

Today also marks the day where you swap the tarmac roads for dirt tracks. Up until now the roads have been really very well maintained. From talking to the drivers this may simply be because many of them are relatively new: The road from Lake Afdera to the main Ethiopia-Djibouti route 2 is still shown as a compacted rock road on many maps. It is a comfortable road to drive along, but it isn’t universally loved as many see it as a reminder of the continued Chinese investment in Ethiopia – something everyone I spoke to seemed to be concerned about.

You will feel the heat and for us joy was found in the simple pleasure of having the 4WD windows open when moving whenever we could although as the day progressed this became increasingly difficult. The track we were following to get to the base camp at Erta Ale was becoming less a rocky gravel track and more volcanic ash with the result that the car in front was creating vast clouds of fine volcanic ash. So windows were closed and we relied on the air conditioning to provide some semblance of cooling.

After a while you turn off the relatively flat ash desert and onto the lava escarpment of Erta Ale itself. The lava lake is approximately 60-70 metres in diameter but the volcano itself is around 30km at its base. It is here that you learn why mankind invented the 4WD. I think it is safe to say the shooting from the vehicle with the aim of keeping horizons straight at this point is futile, but good luck.

 

From what I gather trips up to the summit of Erta Ale all follow the same basic process. You arrive late afternoon as the sun is beginning to lose its strength and swap the 4WD vehicles for camels. In our case, perhaps because we had 13 days worth of possessions with us, we began the process of dividing or items into what we needed to take up to the lave lake and what we could leave behind at the base camp. The ascent involves a 7km trek and a climb of approximately 500 metres, which isn’t really that arduous but even in late afternoon the heat is still above 30°C and most of us weren’t used to such temperatures. As a result the ascent is usually made after dark although this does have its own reward in that you get to make the trek in pitch black across ash plains, razor sharp lava inclines and, well I really don’t know what else as it was pitch black.

 

It was all very Blair Witch. We did make occasional stops for water and to let people catch up and when we did we turned off the head torches. It was phenomenal: An eerie, windless silence under a billion pin pricks of light. When nature puts on a show, she really does it in style. Again, a bit of time invested in learning how to spot the north star and night sky photography would be rewarded here.

The night-time climb to get to the summit base camp may have been an experience, but it was nothing compared to our first sight of the volcano... [Click to enlarge]

The night-time climb to get to the summit base camp may have been an experience, but it was nothing compared to our first sight of the volcano… [Click to enlarge]

It was about 11PM when we got to the top and despite being oddly tired the fact that we were a few hundred metres away from a volcano banished all thoughts of resting – for many of us at least – and anyway, the camels hadn’t arrived with our stuff. This is another tip: If you decide that you are going to have the camels carry your camera back pack – which we all did – make sure that you have your tripod and a fairly wide angle lens with you so you can get set up as soon as you arrive. The above shot was taken from the summit camp which is up on the caldera wall, but that’s not going to be enough to keep you happy for the evening and you’re going to want to head out and get closer.

There’s a simple rule at Erta Ale: All visits out to the volcano’s lake must be accompanied by (at least) one of the Afar military. This is mainly for your protection, although at least for the first night, it also shows you the way. It also means that, should an accident happen, there is someone who can go for help. Speaking of accidents there are several risks that you need to be aware of.

First, between you and the lake is approximately 300 metres of lava field which looks, forgive the pun, rock-solid. It is not. Erta Ale is a very gassy volcano and so the resulting lava is surprisingly light and very brittle. As you walk over the lava you hear this somewhat disconcerting crunching sound. Over the next couple of days there will at least one incident where you’ll put your foot through the lava and you’ll be glad of wearing a good, strong, walking boots when you do; to protect against sprains and nasty cuts.

Second, this is an active volcano and despite its apparently calm appearance it is a bubbling lake of molten rock. If you are lucky you’ll get to see some Strombolian eruptions – the classic fountain of lava – but whilst beautiful they come with the risk of lava bombs. You only have to read my recent post on my selfie to see this.

Third, whilst the gassy nature of Erta Ale can give some photogenic eruptions, the gas is mix of poisonous gasses, predominately hydrogen sulphide. Short exposure can be handled by holding your breath, but for any real photographic work you’ll need a gas mask. Yes, you will look silly and yes it makes breathing harder, but when you see others have to abandon their shots you’ll be grateful for that mask.

The final point worth mentioning is really an extension of the first one. This is not a tourist attraction, it is an active volcano. There are no safety barriers, no warning signs to indicate danger and – again, forgive the pun – in the heat of the moment it is easy to get too close to the edge. Don’t. The edge is very unstable. Over the years there have been few deaths due to the edge collapsing. Again, this is a benefit of a properly organised expedition – a knowledgeable guide who will keep you safe.

So off we headed into the inky darkness. There is no real way that I can explain the experience of meeting your first volcano and would probably make it sound rather underwhelming if I tried, but I think my best description so far has been that it was like the sound of nature ripping apart very slowly – an odd mixture of a deep bass with a kind of fizzing high-pitched sound. It had a similar creaking sound as an iceberg make as it thaws – nature under extreme stress – albeit the noise was octaves lower. It is a disquieting sound that leaves you feeling that you are in the wrong place.

The remainder of evening – we were they until about 1:30AM – was spent getting used to being this close to a volcano. I think it is a good idea; the photography is limited to capturing abstracts of the bright orange lava against the black centimetres-thick cooling surface, but for me the biggest thing I got from the evening was to get ‘being awestruck’ out of the way.

Anyway, at some point you will have to return to the camp so make sure you get some sleep – you have to be back at the lake before dawn at around 6AM!

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